Nestled between towering peaks in the Alpine Rhone Valley, this sun-drenched region is perfect for hiking and biking.
Valais, located in southwestern Switzerland, is ideal for relaxed hiking during the spring, summer, and autumn months—and it’s easily accessible. I traveled from Geneva Airport and took advantage of Switzerland’s highly efficient rail and bus system, using a Swiss Travel Pass to get around.
Cheese and Wine
Valais is Switzerland’s largest wine-producing region, with vineyards stretching across the southeast-facing slopes of the scenic Rhône River Valley. It’s also a place where cheese holds a special place in local culture. The canton of Valais is the birthplace of Raclette, a traditional dish mentioned in Swiss texts as far back as 1291, and beloved by herders for centuries.
The most authentic way to enjoy Raclette is by gathering around a small mountain campfire, slowly melting local, unpasteurized cow’s milk cheese onto slices of bread. This is exactly what we did.
“Raclette can also be served with potatoes and pickles,” explained Elodie from Nendaz Tourism, who organized our culinary experience. But the best way to enjoy it is in its simplest form, accompanied by a warm drink of tea or wine, while perched on an Alpine ridge.
Fendant is one of the key grape varieties here, and local legend claims that Louis XV’s gardener traveled from Versailles to show how to grow it (although some locals argue the knowledge originated from Geneva). This fruity, dry wine pairs perfectly with Raclette—once you try it, you’ll want more.
Bisses of Valais
Valais is also famous for its bisses, traditional wooden irrigation channels that were used to bring glacial water to cultivated land. These bisses, which have been carefully restored, run along accessible walking trails marked for varying levels of difficulty.
I used the map from www.valais.ch to walk between Nendaz and Veysonnaz, following the Bisse Vieux and the Grand Bisse de Vex, dating back to the 15th century. The route took about four hours, with a break for lunch in the hamlet of Planchouet. (Yellow signs indicate an easy path, while red-and-white signs signal more challenging terrain.)
These canals, fed by the Printse River, irrigate apricot trees, raspberry bushes, and fields of oregano and wild thyme. Along the way, I passed houses with stone-slab roofs, nestled in larch and conifer forests. I even spotted a rare black squirrel—an unusual gene variation that thrives in this region.
While the squirrels were shy, the local Hérens cattle were not. Short and stocky, these dark-coated cows have strict social hierarchies and engage in fierce battles to determine which cow leads the others to the Alpine pastures. It’s surprising to see how eager they are to pick a fight, but we witnessed a brief showdown between two cows, clashing horns, though they showed no interest in us.
Yoga in Magrappé Forest
Valais is blessed with a dry, sunny climate, boasting 300 days of sunshine per year. There’s even a designated Yoga Path in the Magrappé Forest for outdoor yoga enthusiasts, and cycling is hugely popular here too. In September 2025, Valais will host the UCI Mountain Bike World Championships, solidifying its status as the mountain biking capital of the world.
I stuck to hiking since I tend to fall off bikes, but I did venture to the Bisse de Chervé, the highest of Valais’ bisses, which runs at an elevation of over 2,200 meters. From there, I took the Combatseline chairlift and hiked towards the stunning Cleuson Dam Lake, where the water’s vivid blue is caused by light refraction.
The nearby St-Barthélémy Chapel offers panoramic views of the Bernese Alps. Dating back to 1447, it was originally made of timber but was rebuilt in stone in 1951 by workers constructing the dam.
The trail down from the dam is popular with marmots and Chamois goat-antelopes, which scale the steep slopes to lick salt from the surface.
The Witches of Sion
Curious about Sion, I decided to visit the Sorcerers’ Tower, a 13th-century structure that once formed part of the city walls and was also used as a prison. It’s linked to the witch trials that took place during the Inquisition.
Between 1428 and 1447, the Valais trials led to the execution of hundreds accused of sorcery. The charges? Allegedly conspiring with the devil, who was said to appear as a black bear (or, perhaps, a black cow or squirrel!).
The tower is just a half-hour walk from the Oenoparc at Les Celliers de Sion, a wine and vineyard center that hosts events and tastings year-round.
Switzerland exports less than 5% of its wine, so the Swiss enjoy most of their excellent production themselves. I had the chance to sample the fragrant Petite Arvine, a local white wine grape with a unique DNA and a subtle mango or grapefruit bouquet. It pairs wonderfully with cheese, and Valais is also known for its goat and sheep cheeses, such as Tomme (made from skimmed milk) and Serac (made from whey), as well as the classic fondue made from a blend of Gruyère and Raclette.
Did I mention how much the Swiss love cheese?
Travel Information
FLY: Swiss International Air Lines (SWISS) flies from the UK to Zurich and Geneva, with fares starting from £54 one-way.
MOVE AROUND: The Swiss Travel Pass, starting at £186 for a three-day second-class ticket, offers unlimited travel on rail, bus, and boat across Switzerland, plus access to the Swiss Museum Pass. It takes about two hours by train from Geneva Airport to Sion, and then a 30-minute bus ride from Sion to Veysonnaz.
STAY: Both Hotel Chalet Royal in Veysonnaz and Hotel Mad Mount in Haute-Nendaz offer spa facilities. For a memorable dining experience, try a fondue for two at Le Magrappé restaurant in Veysonnaz, enjoy lunch on the terrace of the Restaurant de Planchouet while hiking, or savor the meat dishes cooked on slates at Le Grenier in Nendaz.
